City of Witches

SOPORTÚJAR is a small town in the Alpujarra (Granada region).

Until the 16th century, it was known as "Soborcoxar", which meant "place of arcades" (because of the typical street passages, known as tinao), and was inhabited by a group of Moorish families trying to live in peace after a long process of reconquering the Iberian Christians of the lands on the Iberian Peninsula occupied by the Moorish emirates. After the decree of Philip II on the expulsion of the Moors, the city had to be settled by Christian families, most of whom came from Galicia and other cities in northern Spain. 

At that time, many legends about witchcraft appeared here, and the place itself was considered energetically strong. Now these legends are the basis for the development of the city within the framework of the Embrujo de Soportújar project, which is a comprehensive economic and tourist development project based on the improvement of our anthropological, natural, landscape and architectural heritage. Within its framework, the houses and streets of the city were restored, and many thematic attractions appeared.

For example, behind the cemetery you can visit Cueva del Ojo la Bruja. It is said that there lived a witch who could see everything, and it was there that all the witches in the area gathered to plan their spells.

At the bottom of this cave there is a crack, which, according to local residents, is the entrance door to the "other world". The souls of the dead can enter and exit through it.

Right next to it is a modern (but similar to the medieval) bridge, which is said to be haunted. 

There is also a "Witchcraft Themed Center". It is located in the municipal school in the former teacher's house. This is a small museum where explanatory work is carried out on various aspects of witchcraft, local history and tradition, as well as on the evolution of this concept over the years.

Very close to the narrowest street in Spain (Zanjilla Street, according to various sources from 55 to 48 centimeters wide at the narrowest point) you can see a small square where the well of desires is located.

One of the most prominent fountains in this city is the Dragon Fountain. It is located in a small corner, between two alleys, and it is said that the water flowing from this spring has the properties of an aphrodisiac and a fertility stimulant.

The central character of the city is Baba Yaga. This is a well-known character of Slavic legends. According to one version, one day she came to visit the city and, tired of the cold of the Slavic countries, decided to stay in the Alpujarra. According to another, she was born here. According to the third version, local witches chose her as a symbol of the city, because they believed that she was one of the most powerful witches in the world. It is fashionable to find sculptures of Baba Yaga's head, her house on chicken legs, as well as many images of witches.

The best time to visit the town is August, during the Spell Fair and during the Celtic festival of Samhain, Samhain or better known in the rest of the world as Halloween, October 31.

It is quite a popular tourist destination. There are a lot of people there, especially on the dates indicated. It is best to arrive in the evening and not on a Sunday afternoon. On these holidays there is an extensive cultural program with a fair, musical performances, theatrical productions, circus, etc.

There are many shops with near-Koldovo paraphernalia and souvenirs. Each house is decorated in an interesting way, with various thematic details. In addition to a large number of images of witches and Baba Yaga, there are other sculptures – from a flying broom guarded by a black cat to huge terrifying creatures such as spiders or snakes. There is an interesting fountain on the square Mirador del embrujo. In it you can see a sculpture in the form of a couple of witches who cook their potions in a large cauldron. There is an observation deck, from which you can enjoy a wonderful view of the surrounding area.

The narrowest street is also associated with witches. There is a sign on it with the inscription "Witches can be seen during the day, but leave before dark" (De día las brujas puedes ver, pero márchate antes del anochecer).

They really know about Baba Yaga in this place. For example, on one of the streets there is a huge colorful hut on chicken legs. Spaniards also believe that to enter this house, a witch must say "Casita Casita, da la espalda al bosque y voltea hacia mí" ("hut, hut, turn to the forest with your back to me in front"), which is written on one of the walls of the hut. Next to the hut there is an enchanted fountain with a riddle from Baba Yaga, originating in one of the fairy tales.

It is very interesting to visit this place, but you should not count on real abnormal events.